I hope you don’t think I am arrogant because I am not,I know the food and wine trade with chefs and sommeliers can be like that but I am very humble.Remember that DRC and Dujac have such a long history and experience and also very special soils and climate for Pinot Noir.It is a debate with PN producers all over the world about destemming and whole cluster.But it is very tricky to get it right and only the experience of making many mistakes have DRC got it right but who also sometimes destem when they think the vintage has not been great to them.I travel through Burgundy every year.Remember when people first drink DRC wines they are not blown away because they don’t like those green flavours and it takes time to understand it.

DRC look at the vintage every year to see how much whole cluster and how much destemming they use.Depending on the ripeness of the stems, the winemaker will choose the amount of stems, if any, to be included in fermentation. When green, stems can impart vegetal notes and accentuate bitter tannins. However, when used correctly, stems can add complexity to some wine styles. As the stems become more mature and brown, in a process known as lignification, they can contribute structure, weight and texture to certain varietals, most notably those made in a Rhône style.

Who was the most repected producer in Burgundy for all those years,it was Henri Jayer.He eliminated any material that was rotten or unripe. Only natural yeasts would do, as he thought synthetic ones bred uniformity of taste, and yields were minute. Bunches were completely destalked as he thought the stalks added nothing but bitterness. Then the grapes were left to cold macerate for five days before fermentation.Those are the words of the Pope of Burgundy Henri Jayer.But it’s your choice Shane and you must be your own man in the vineyard.I admire you for taking the chance with PN but remember with PN it’s a life long learning experience,that’s why we all love it.

About alcohol I just have to disagree with you.I am not baseing all my views on what goes on in France but as a sommelier when I get that big smell of alcohol from the wine it puts me off.Also it puts people off.Again when I speak to producers in france and italy they all say that balance comes from between 12 to 13 percent alcohol and when you go higher it does not become wine anymore.Why did we all and still fall in love with the elegance of Great Grand Gru or even normal good wine from france because it’s balance comes from the right amount of alcohol,fruit,acidity and tannins.No one thing should over power the other.When I serve wine with high alcohol I always have to decant it just to help lower the alcohol level,I should not have to do that.Balance should come from the vineyard itself.

Thanks again for your respone and I hope to come out to your farm one day.

Roland

Sommelier.

I hope you don’t think I am arrogant because I am not,I know the food and wine trade with chefs and sommeliers can be like that but I am very humble.Remember that DRC and Dujac have such a long history and experience and also very special soils and climate for Pinot Noir.It is a debate with PN producers all over the world about destemming and whole cluster.But it is very tricky to get it right and only the experience of making many mistakes have DRC got it right but who also sometimes destem when they think the vintage has not been great to them.I travel through Burgundy every year.Remember when people first drink DRC wines they are not blown away because they don’t like those green flavours and it takes time to understand it.

DRC look at the vintage every year to see how much whole cluster and how much destemming they use.Depending on the ripeness of the stems, the winemaker will choose the amount of stems, if any, to be included in fermentation. When green, stems can impart vegetal notes and accentuate bitter tannins. However, when used correctly, stems can add complexity to some wine styles. As the stems become more mature and brown, in a process known as lignification, they can contribute structure, weight and texture to certain varietals, most notably those made in a Rhône style.

Who was the most repected producer in Burgundy for all those years,it was Henri Jayer.He eliminated any material that was rotten or unripe. Only natural yeasts would do, as he thought synthetic ones bred uniformity of taste, and yields were minute. Bunches were completely destalked as he thought the stalks added nothing but bitterness. Then the grapes were left to cold macerate for five days before fermentation.Those are the words of the Pope of Burgundy Henri Jayer.But it’s your choice Shane and you must be your own man in the vineyard.I admire you for taking the chance with PN but remember with PN it’s a life long learning experience,that’s why we all love it.

About alcohol I just have to disagree with you.I am not baseing all my views on what goes on in France but as a sommelier when I get that big smell of alcohol from the wine it puts me off.Also it puts people off.Again when I speak to producers in france and italy they all say that balance comes from between 12 to 13 percent alcohol and when you go higher it does not become wine anymore.Why did we all and still fall in love with the elegance of Great Grand Gru or even normal good wine from france because it’s balance comes from the right amount of alcohol,fruit,acidity and tannins.No one thing should over power the other.When I serve wine with high alcohol I always have to decant it just to help lower the alcohol level,I should not have to do that.Balance should come from the vineyard itself.

Thanks again for your respone and I hope to come out to your farm one day.

Roland

Sommelier.

Thanks for taking the time to listen to the interview and leave a comment. It’s always nice to hear people’s feedback. I do agree w/more time and experience my views will change….hopefully for the better but at the moment let me make two quick counter-points.

Whole Cluster – I am no Burgundy expert however I do know that many producers use a significant percentage, if not 100%, of whole cluster. DRC jumps to mind as a producer that uses 100% whole cluster frequently – if not every year. I had dinner w/Aubert de Villaine in Australia (at a pinot conference and whole cluster seemed to be a pleasing element to him). I think many people would argue that DRC is the archetype for pinot noir. I believe Dujac uses quite a bit of whole cluster as well. Maybe rusty can jump in and lend some clarity here?

As far as the New World, I know of many, many producers that use whole cluster effective. In NZ (Central Otago) Felton Road — one of my favorite pinot producers worldwide – uses quite a bit of whole cluster.

Alcohol – The number is irrelevant to me. What matter is how the wine tastes. If it’s 12, 13, 14, 15 etc whatever….I don’t make wine by the #s for acidity, tannins, or alcohol….I want to make balanced wines…and I think I can at alcohol levels higher than 13%. Honestly, I pick vineyards where high sugars and thus high alcohols aren’t too much of a concern b/c the vineyards sit in cooler areas that allow the acidity and sugar levels to develop in tandem. I pick when the fruit tastes good. I’d rather have a wine w/a bit too much alcohol than one that tastes like green beans

Thanks again for listening!

Cheer, Shane

Then Shane’s comments on whole cluster of grapes.It is the reason why producers in burgundy don’t do that and why they are destemming their wine because Pinot Noir is already a very tannic grape and as Pinot Noir ages the wine changes flavour and becomes more earthy anyway.So one does not have to do that when making the wine.The most elegant pinot noirs in the world from Burgundy to America,South Africa in a small appellation called walker bay with producers like Hamilton Russell to New Zealand and even Chile now are destemming because once you really understand the grape variety you will get balance in the wine.I disagree with his comment about alcohol.He said in the interview that he wants balance in the wine,well with high alcohol he will lose that balance.

Yes even today some french and italian wine are 14 percent but it is like a great artist.You try and will buy the graffiti art work but you will never sale your Van Gogh because it’s timeless and priceless.The great burgundies and bordeaux today still are 12 to 13 percent and that brings balance to the whole wine from fruit,acidity,tannins and body.He talkes about ageing with PN,just look how long burgundies can age and they are destemmed and yes they have tannins but they also use the natural flavour of the grape.Let the grape do it’s own speaking.But time will teach Shane that with Pinot Noir you can’t mess around with it as the grape variety will put you on your place.He is making good wine now but when he starts to destemming his Pinot Noir he will start to make great wine and also understand it more.

Thanks guys.

Roland

Sommelier.

Cheers,

Monica
CellarThief.com